"Ken Weitzel" wrote in message
news:audWd.576200$6l.466647@pd7tw2no...
wrote:
Hello all!
I am working on a 2 meter (146 MHz) radio kit, and I am faced with
the need to adjust various coils and transformers in it. The
directions point out which ones can be adjusted with a metal tool,
and which ones really need a non-metallic tool. My first non-
metallic tool was a cheap plastic flat-blade screwdriver meant for
adjusting trimpots. It started out OK but the tip quickly got
chewed up and it started slipping. So, I get out the regular
(metal) screwdriver set, and managed to crack one of the cores with
my enthusiasm...
I have a new coil on the way and now I am looking at real, official
alignment tools. Basically, I see pure plastic tools of varying
materials, tools that are a metal core covered in plastic, and
some fancy ceramic ones. I'm pretty sure I don't want the ones
with a metal core. The plastic ones are inexpensive. The ceramic
ones sound like they would be more robust, but they also might be
more brittle. My immediate need is for a small flat-blade tip
about 1.5 to 2 mm wide, and a larger flat-blade tip about 4 to
6 mm wide. It seems like you can get a better deal on sets of
tools, which is fine, as long as it has the ones I need. In the
future I might be using them on other two-way radios, for sure
from 450 MHz down to 50 MHz, and then possibly on some radios
below 30 MHz. I don't anticipate using them much on AM or FM
broadcast sets, or television sets.
Are there any particular brands or features that are recommended,
or unfavored? Any sets that are particularly good for this
application? (I like the idea of the ceramic ones, but if they
break a lot they may not be worth the cost.)
Thanks for your help!
Matt Roberds
Hi Matt...
If you try not to laugh at a real old guy, back in
the olden days we used to get a couple of knitting
needles.
A few minutes with a pair of cutters and a file, and
we could have several flat blade ones for the price
of a single needle. Double ended, too. Different size
on each end.
Ken
I've never seen ceramic core twisters, i'd have thought them to be as harsh
on
ferrite recesses as steel blades.
I find the plastic shafts of broken darts stems a good starting point,
paring down with knife or small grind wheel.
Anyone any tips for the first shifting - i tendt to heat up with a soldering
iron
but any other ideas. Most tool/ ferrite damage is done trying to
overcome the varnishes or whatever introduced after factory alignment.
I just use a dab of hot-melt glue when done, theory being it should
look like hot-melt to anyone else coming across my fiddlings
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://homepages.tcp.co.uk/~diverse