Dick Snyder wrote:
I replied to this message with a further question about sharpening.
Subsequent to doing that I found a good web resource that answered my

question so I don't need any replies. I'm sorry I couldn't find this
sooner
so I wouldn't waste people's time replying to my question.


http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...tml?page=1&c=y


Two comments on that article.

1) For good results you should hone finer that 1000 grit especially for
a place blade. 1000 grit will be OK for a scrubplane but cutters
for smoothing planes will more often be honed down to an 8,000
grti waterstone.

2) The specialized equipment needed to sharpen a saw is a trangular
file.
After a few sharpenings the teeh will need to be jointed, which
requires a medium ******* file and a holder--the holder can just
be a piece of rabbeted wood. And the teeth will need to be reset
which is done with a sawset, typically $5 to $10 at an antique
store.



Dick Snyder
"AAvK" wrote in message
news:wNLUd.19$Ke.6@fed1read03...

I mulled over this descision for quite a while, constantly looking
at low angle block planes for a few months. I discovered all
options
and prices, small and large, eBay is always loaded with them from
all makers but to get a decent Stanley 60 1/2 used is too much con-
sidering the condition, lots of japanning chipped off, and "just
old",
you might need a new $30 blade as well so why pay $50-$60 for
that plane, after all the bidding and waiting PLUS shipping???
Forget it.


I haven't priced them on eBay recently so I dunno what the going rate
is for a user. Chipped japaning has no effect on useablity and old
is good in terms fo fit and function. Typically an old block plane
will require less fettling than a new one to get it useable condition.
I like restoring planes so maybe that is what makes the difference
to me.

I'll agree that you can't go wrong with LN or LV though, and the plane
will be useable or at most require a slight honing to the blade
right out of the box.

--

FF