I replied to this message with a further question about sharpening.
Subsequent to doing that I found a good web resource that answered my question so I don't need any replies. I'm sorry I couldn't
find this sooner so I wouldn't waste people's time replying to my question.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...tml?page=1&c=y Dick Snyder

That's OK, I'll answer anyway... it's a pleasu

I am not out to spend massive amounts of buckaroos on sharpening
because I am destitutely po'! heh heh... so I use the "scary sharp"
method.

On this you will find a wealth of info on the 'net for free. I will not
buy some companies SS outfit for too much dough either, I went to
my local (and wonderful) junk shop and bought a piece of glass that
is a serious 3/4" thick (highly expensive new, I paid $10), and a length
of marble around 24" long x 11" or so wide, $15.

With these you'd want a cheap vise type Chinese honing guide (they
are usually grey/silver painted), these actually are heavy and work
very well. This is the guide I use, same one comes under many names
and they are on eBay. Anywhere from $9 to $13. It is made to hold
both plane cutters and chisels, as long as they're not real thick ones
like current Stanleys. They have to be proper bench chisels.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...?v=glance&s=hi
http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com...71999363b3416d
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3114
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...Honing%20Guide
http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/10910
http://www.thewoodworkerschoice.com/...roduct_id=0239
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/M...egory_Code=THG

They are everywhere.

To set the bevels you have to measure how far out of the guide the
blade extends. I use the depth end of a Vernier caliper, this info is
on the guide's package and molded into the side of the guide, two
measurements each per type of blade, in metric.

The other items are a can of 3M super 77 adhesive spray, a can of
Bestine's rubber cement thinner ~or~ a can of s.p.e.c.s. paint thinner
works just as well (specifically), and cheaper. The dry glue must be
removed before applying new papers to avoid hills and valleys.

And a set of Norton sandpapers that are aluminum oxide, from 100,
220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1200. You can go as high as 1500 if you
can find it. On these papers I would look to the 'net for best pricing.
I skip 400 and 800 for drudgery, but this system works extremely well.

....just one economical idea for you,

--
Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/