On Mon, 28 Feb 2005 18:49:44 +0000, timycelyn wrote:
"Tim S" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 28 Feb 2005 07:52:49 +0000, timycelyn wrote:
A question: I'm getting reasdy to lay a fair sized one (~ 12' x 12') in
my
kitchen, and am wondering as to the best way of dealing with white goods.
Does one lay it underneath them (risk of expansion/contaction dragging
them
back and forth, and maybe humping) or does one stop it short of them, in
which case how does one get a good edge with the required movement?
Cheers
Tim
Hi
Pull 'em out and lay the whole floor - much better that way. The
expansion/contraction isn't going to be a problem.
However, as much as I like laminate, I would recommend thinking again for
kitchens/bathrooms. It is very slippery when wet and you'll need to get
the absolute best quality water resistant type. And glue every last inch
of the joints. Clicky stuff is good elsewhere, but it does open up
slightly (hairline gaps) which aren't normally an issue, but in a kitchen
they are going to fill with grease and cr*p.
We used a decent cushion vinyl and it was very nice.
HTH
Tim
Thanks Tim,
I'll follow your advice. I've got the grade specified for
Kitchens/Bathrooms, but re gluing the joints (which sounds an excellent
idea) which adhesive would u reccommend? (PVA......water resistance?
PU....messy job? I can't believe it's going to work.....too much
solvent/mess?)
Cheers
Tim
Bearing in mind I didn't lay laminate in my kitchen or bathroom...
Use whatever glue is normally sold for laminate. I suspect it is some sort
of waterproof PVA. You didn't say whether you have clicky stuff or
traditional glue-fit planks?
The clicky stuff *can* be backed up with glue, but as the joint mating is
tight, thick glue in a going-off state can make it difficult to get the
joint closed (friend's experience). You need to be quick.
***
In short, if using non-clicky stuff (tongued and grooved fit) follow the
manufacturer's instructions, but consider gluing along the whole tongue
to give improved water resistance.
***
If clicky, well, I wouldn't have used that in a kitchen myself, so I might
consider doing the following myself (in theory):
Cut a plank (the dodgiest looking on in the pack, there's sometimes a
slightly damaged one, so this is a good use) into 4-6 pieces and test your
assembly method. Remember that the long lengths are going to be several
times more difficult, if you are detecting problems with the test samples.
Go sparingly with the glue (long thin line rather than dollops of it). You
might need to experiemnet with *very slightly* thinning the glue down with
water (assuming it's bog standard PVA).
Let the glue go off and test the joint.
I haven't actually done this, but I think it would work. The glue will
help to seal the joints so water spills are less likely to find their way
under the laminate and damage it or the underlay/subfloor from beneath,
and the glue will also lock the planks into one rock solid floating floor
which means it will expand and contract on mass, rather than opening
hairline gaps at every joint. Of course, you will never get teh planks
apart after this.
Given the caveats I've mentioned, it would be worth waiting a couple of
days and see if anyone else pops up who actually did lay laminate in a wet
room, they will undoubtedly have some tips
Any doubts with any of this, fall back on the manufactuers instructions -
I just said *I* wouldn't use clicky in the kitchen because I've seen how
it behaves with temperature cycling, but if you keep the floor clean and
minimise/mop up quickly spills it will probably be OK. I have had
minor spills occasionally and it held up, but I've always jumped on them
with a cloth immediately.
HTH
Tim