1_Patriotic_Guy wrote:

When dry, what are the appearance and
performance/endurance differneces between Lacquer, Shellac, Varnish
and Polyurethane? Also what should I know about working with each?
Will clear polyurethane, give me the shiny finish I wanted and
previously got with the "High Gloss" polyurethane? If not can I buy
Deft "High Gloss" poly through the internet?

Simplistically...

All clear "top coat" finishes consist of two primary components: the
vehicle and the resin or solid which is dissolved in the vehicle. The
ones you will encounter as a consumer dry/set by evaporation of the
vehicle.

The resin for varnishes is normally either alkyd or polyurethane. The
vehicle is mostly paint thinner/oil (both) or water (only poly AFAIK).
The water based polys dont color the wood like the oil based ones; i.e.,
they don't make the wood much darker or the grain/figure more apparent.
Oil based varnishes will impart a slight amber coloring as well as "pop"
the grain.

Lacquer is various plastics dissolved in a fast evaporating vehicle.
The "plastic" used to be nitrocelluose, nowadays it can be lots of
things. They are water clear but pop the grain like oil base varnishes
but less so.

Shellac is a refined secretion of a beetle dissolved in alcohol. The
color is determined by how refined the resin is. It can vary from dark
brown to orangeish to almost clear. It is normally bought in flakes
which are then dissolved in alcohol as needed.
_________________

Poly varnish = hard but "plasticky looking. Takes a long time to dry
(up to a month for complete dry). Should be sanded between coats. Hard
to repair.

Alkyd varnish = not as hard but better looking IMO. Takes a long time
to dry too. Should be sanded between coats, sands easier than poly.
Hard to repair.

Lacquer is probably the most used commercial finish. Since it dries
rapidly, several coats can be applied in a day. There are varieties for
both spraying and brushing. Complete drying is several days depending
on how thick/many layers there are. Doesn't have to be sanded for
adhesion, one coat melts into the next. Normally sands easily. Can be
very hard, can be relatively soft...normally about like alkyd varnish.
Very easy to repair.

Shellac is like lacquer in as much as it dries rapidly and sands easily
but doesn't require sanding between coats. The coats are very thin and
it takes many to build a nice finish. When done properly by someone who
knows how, it gives a beautiful finish...often used on musical
instruments including pianos. Very easy to repair.

It also makes a good "barrier" coat because it can be applied to any
other clear finish and any other clear top finish can be applied to it.
You cannot apply lacquer to varnish (vehicle eats the varnish) but you
can do vice versa.
____________________

The sheen of any clear finish as it comes from the can is able to be
varied. All are normally glossy. If a flatting agent (often powdered
talc) has been added it diminishes the shine. Add more and it is
diminished more. Same effect can be achieved with mechanical
abrasion...0000 steel wool, pumice, rotten stone, rubbing compound, etc.

The best high gloss finishes aren't "out of the can"...they are worked
up by rubbing out with finer and finer materials. That not only gives a
glossy finish, it gives a smooth, flat one.
______________________

IMO the best/easiest clear finish for home projects is brushing
lacquer...it is easy to work with and builds rapidly. It is very easy
to repair too. The one I particularly like is Deft Clear.
Unfortunately, the can says nothing about it *being* lacquer but it is
(you can tell by the smell). Comes in glossy and semi gloss.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico