"andrewpreece" wrote in message ...
"David Hearn" wrote in message
...
I'm thinking of putting up a dado rail but have a few questions.

Firstly - I've seen pre-primed MDF versions or plain pine versions
(cheaper). Which are better? What kind of work would need to be done for
the pine ones before fitting? The tag said to seal it on all sides
first -
what should I use to do this? We plan on using gloss paint as the final
coat. I assume the MDF would require less preparation - just fix to wall
and paint, whereas the pine would require sealing before fitting and then
painting afterwards.

Secondly - most of the corners in our room are corner, but there is one
external corner which is curved. What is the best way of getting the dado
around the corner? At worst case, I could just stop the dado at each side
of the corner and just leave the curved part without the rail.

Thirdly - what is the best way of fixing it to the wall? Nails? Glue/No
more nails? The wall is brick and plaster, so I'm not sure if nailing
would
be that easy.

Finally - what height is the most common? It's a 1930's semi's living
room
where we'll be doing it. It has high ceilings and we have a wooden mantel
around the fireplace and I think it would be okay at that height - it kind
of seems right to do it at the same height as the mantel, although a
little
lower may also be okay. I'm sure there must be a bit of a 'standard
height'
out there somewhere!

Thanks

David

Pine best - MDF will eventually chip or wear and look crap. Easiest
fix is screws and plugs which will help pull it in to any bends. If
the radius is slow enough you might be able to bend it round - pulling
it in with screws and plugs, otherwise just stop it off - finish the
ends by scribing the profile as if mitred. Height usually about 30
inches - about chair back height.
No need to seal the back - just paint the visible bits. One universal
rule of trad joinery is that nothing unseen is ever painted - its
cheaper and allows the wood to "breathe".


cheers

Jacob