In article . com,
wrote:
I just got my second rotary table... This one has a two position knob
that doesn't seem to do anything... Could anyone tell me what it's for
??? (see red arrow)
Pull it out, and rotate the arm in which it is mounted until it
is in line with the other hole enar the oil cup, and then release it so
its pin enters that hole.
In one position, the worm gear is engaged, so you rotate the
table with the crank.
In the other position, the work is disengaged, so you can rotate
the table quickly by hand. (You'll have to loosen the two locking
levers near the table mounting bolt notches, of course.
One more stupid question.... What's holding this three jaw chuck onto
the table... I see no attachments anywhere...
Super glued ???
I suspect that it has a taper attached to it which matches the
taper in the center of the table (probably a Morse taper, but possibly
another of the several which have been standards over the years.)
What do you see when you look through the T-slots? Two of them
cross in the center, and you should be able to see any center pin there.
The other two bypass the center, (and are parallel with one of the
center ones), and you can check here as well for any T-nuts in the
slots, though I doubt that there are any, as I don't see any way to
tighten bolts into them.
Now -- it is remotely possible that someone drilled through the
table and installed bolts from the bottom to secure the chuck
permanently. To determine this (if everything else shows no attachment
system), you'll have to remove the table from the base. I don't know
what brand it is, and I've never had one of that size in my hands
anyway, but what I would suggest as a possible route would be:
1) Invert it on some stable surface, and unscrew the ring which
holds the table to the base. Note whether anything else is
released, such as perhaps a thrust bearing.
2) Turn it right side up again.
3) Remove the two clamp levers and clamps near the slots for the
mounting bolts.
4) Rotate the knob indicated by the arrow to whichever position
disengages the handwheel worm from the matching gear on the
hub of the table.
5) Lift the table and chuck as a single assembly, so you can gain
access to the bolts securing the chuck to the table. (There may
also be a centering plug which fits the taper in the center of
the table and a recess in the back of the chuck.
Note carefully any small parts (such as thrust bearings) which
fall from the bottom of the table as you remove it from the
casting.
**** WARNING ***
I don't know what small parts may come popping out when you do
this, and hide forever under something immovable in your shop. This is
simply what *I* would do if I wanted the chuck off of the table.
And -- if this *has* been done to the table (drilling to mount a
chuck) there may be distortion of the table from relieved stresses, in
which case, unless you are willing to tackle the job of scraping it flat
again, it is likely now better off with the chuck permanently attached.
Good Luck,
DoN.
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