The hydraulics are just plumbing; HP hydraulic lines and fittings are
available everywhere in industrialized sections; NT notwithstanding. A
4" DA cylinder and 11 GPH pump is plenty for up to 24" dia. bucks. My
home built splitter uses a 12" stroke cylinder, which is plenty, since I
buck all my logs to 18" lengths for my fireplaces. You pretty much can't
build a splitter for much less than you can buy one, unless you snag the
major components free or very cheap.
JR
Dweller in the cellar
Andrew H. Wakefield wrote:
I've been looking at the possibility of building a log splitter, vaguely
following some old plans from Mother Earth magazine. The metalwork presents
no problems (perhaps famous last words!) but I have never messed with
hydraulics. I've been looking at the parts that Northern Tool sells, and am
not entirely sure what I am looking at.
For the hydraulic pumps, there seem to be two styles, one that is rated in
GPM and one that is rated in cu. in. Why the different ratings? Are these
two different types of pumps, intended for different uses?
For pumps that are rated in GPM: If the max PSI is the same for two
different pumps, would they both be able to create the same amount of
splitting force -- but the one with higher GPM would move faster than
other -- or am I totally off track here?
NT also sells a variety of hydraulic rams, ranging considerably in price.
They all seem to have three specs: max PSI (generally either 2500 or 3000),
stroke, and bore. Okay--how do I compare these specs to the commercial log
splitters advertised as "20 ton splitter" or "25 ton splitter"? Is the
overall force exerted related to the PSI--but the rams and pumps all seem to
have similar maximum PSI?? Or is it a function of PSI and bore size?
I guess what I need is a quick course in basic hydraulics. Is there a good
website to read up on this stuff? Many thanks to anyone who takes pity on my
ignorance!
Andy
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