"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
top gear wrote:



Full synthetic oil is not snake oil. Its benefits over run of the mill
mineral oils is beyond question,

The point you are missing, is that whilst snake and full mineral oils
may well be better, are the standard and much cheaper oils GOOD
ENOUGH.

I'm not missing any point. I'm sure cheap mineral oils are "good enough",
and that is about it. It will stop the engine from seizing up. Of course all
oils are better than 1962 oils and that is not the point as I am comparing
the current crop available, comparing like with like. The original point I
made which I have to keep coming back to, as many here don't get it and fly
off on tangents about body panel rust or other unrelated matters, is how to
maintain the longevity of a drive train and the smooth newness feel and
sound.

It was simple, use the best oils, which just happen to be full synthetics
and change the gear oil at more frequent intervals. It is not overkill. It
is not oil only made for racing cars. It is thin at low temperatures and
gets to the bearings, especially the top end of an engine, in about a second
after the crank turns on a cold morning, which normal thick mineral oil will
not. It is very difficult to compress and keeps an engine very clean. It
prolongs a cat as an extra.

If you really want an engine to last use an oil compressor, available in the
USA, so only available here by mail order from the US. It maintains oil
compression in a vessel. When the crank starts it spurts the oil right
through the galleries to the dry bearings, far faster than the oil pump can
do. Also use a thermos bottle. Used on the US version of the Toyota Prius
and was used on a SAAB model. It retains heat from the coolant. When the
engine is started, stored hot water is injected into the cylinder head
giving instant warm up and heating inside the car, avoiding any choke.