Grumpy,

I just sent you the two postings I spoke of earlier. Main points:

1. Turn that tablesaw over and remove the undercarriage. It's a one time job
that will save you grief later on. Clean, lube and adjust. Couple of drift
pins to remove - one on each wheel for blade height and bevel. With the TS
upside down, you can remove everything, inspect, de-burr and replace the
bolts in 30 min.

2. Be sure the flats that mate with the lands on the tabletop for the
trunnions are flat (no burr's). Use a small mill ******* file to touch them
up.

3. Replace the two front trunnion bolts using threaded rod and couplers as I
explained in the follow-up post. Makes adjusting everything so much easier.

4. When all the burrs or other defects on the lands are fixed, the new bolts
and couplers are installed and evrything is cleaned, and lubed - assemble
everything so its just snug - don't bolt anything down tight. Flip the TS
back over.

5. Now align the tie-bars for parallel as mentioned in the procedure.
Trunnion bolts only need to be snug while aligning the tie bars. The big
lock nuts on the tie-bars (Nyloks) are about 1-1/2" dia as I recall (and you
will need to use a strong-arm bar to break them loose. When you tighten
them - do not jerk on the bar - just snug each one up evenly and smoothly.
There is no torque setting but you'll know when tight is tight. The tie-bars
must be parallel or the blade adjustment will never be correct when you use
the blade for a bevel cut. I ended up with a 10" sanding disk from Sears to
use as the flat plate. Remove any sandpaper and clean any residue off with
mineral spirits.

6. With the tie-bars adjusted, back off on the trunnion bolts slightly so
that the whole top can be moved easily. Now do the blade alignment
procedures.

7. You can now easily loosen and tighten the front trunnion bolts (due to
the modified bolts in front) and move the undercarriage around easily. Just
snug the bolts so it doen't move to easily. If it doesn't stay in one spot
now after you do the final tightening (1 turn before they break), then you
have a problem with either a trunnion block or a land on the TS top. There
are only 4 points of contact where the trunnions mate with the top so it
shouldn't be too hard to find the culprit. You may need to add a shim or
file a land down a touch if there are not all the same height.

I'm making this sound more difficult than it really is. Just use your parts
breakdown to see how everything comes apart, keep your cool and you do not
need to tighten those trunnion bolts so tight that they'll never move
again - just good and snug. Ever tighten the adjutment bolt on an alternator
after replacing a belt - about that tight. Use a 6" box-end wrench to
tighten them - not a 1/2 drive ratchett wrench and you should be alright.
But if you do break one - start with my first post and read from the
top..........;-)

Bob S.