"Dundonald" wrote in message
ups.com...

andrewpreece wrote:
"Dundonald" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a slightly broken dining chair made of pine.

Description

The back of the chair has two thin pieces of pine (about 6 or 7 mm
thick, 4-5 cm wide) crossing each other, and at the point of cross,
each piece has half a cut out so they cross flush. So if you
imagine
you are looking at an X from the back, the bottom right part of the
X
has broken about halfway past the intersection, i.e. about 3/4
along
the whole piece going from top left to bottom right.

The break half way along has zig zagged and is thinner toward the
end
of the break. i.e. it is was not a clean break. It looks to have
snapped and been pealed off if you like. Hard to explain.

The Question

I would like to glue the two pieces back together. I'm thinking of
no
nails. Is this the right type of glue to use?

Any more suggestions on how to complete this are also most welcome
please.

I guess once glued I will also have to lightly sand both sides to
prevent any splinters?

Thanks.


I would use PVA wood glue, the gloopy white stuff.

Thanks Andy, any brand suggestions and any particular reason why this
would be the better solution? No second guessing here, just trying to
understand. I'm no glue expert.

No brand recommendations I'm afraid, PVA is used for glueing wood, I used to
use it on my model aircraft! No-nails is general purpose and rather thick
stuff. I would not use the solvent based no-nails
under any circumstances for fine woodwork joiney as it forms an instant skin
when exposed to air and is very thick. The water-based no-nails is white and
is similar to PVA in many ways, but it is also designed for 'grab', though
it is not as good as the solvent-based stuff in this effect. You do not want
'grab' for your application, you want a gap-filling easy-flowing ( for good
penetration ) wood glue, and that is PVA. You can try the white 'no-nails'
if you like, it may be ok. You won't get a second try if it isn't though!

There are two types of
no-nails, one of which is based on volatiles ( no good for this
purpose
IMHO ), the other is white and based on water. Whilst this second
type of
no-nails is better than the first, both are high-grab, thick glues
and will
not be the best adhesives to use.

Similar to above really, would appreciate if you could expand on this
so I can understand why these two options wouldn't be the best.



Don't have a G-clamp but more than willing to go buy one if I need it.

Not strictly necessary to get a glued joint, but probably necessary to get
the best
joint in terms of strength and appearance.

Andy.