tarquinlinbin wrote:

I have recently removed a load of grotty wall tiles from a small
bathroom. The walls are plasterboard on studding-even the external
walls.

It now looks like this..

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dooper786/bathroom1.jpg

I've never done any plasterboard fixing before but its a small job so
i thought id give it a go. I've already tried a few local plasterers
but no replies yet..!

I've been here..

http://www.british-gypsum.com/


and a brilliant and very informative site it is,,

apparently i need to use Gyrpoc moisture resist wall board.

Despite reading the install guides on the website,i couldnt quite
grasp the business of taping joints and micrometal mesh for external
corners eg window niches etc..

Can someone please explain the process of taping joints, fixing this
metal mesh on external corners and also what products i need?,i
understand its best to use the proper fixing screws to prvent boards
from coming loose in future etc..

Umm.

Sort of.

Plasterboard is fairly waeka stiff, bu plaster is even weaker.

Ther are tow ways to 'do' plasterbard.

One is 'drywall' technique where you use tapered boards and, usually,
screws to hold it down. If you get the torque juts right the screws go
into the board far enough to be below the surface, but not far enough to
actually break the cardboard surface and then essentially fail to hold
it on place at all.

Then you fill the v shaped sections between boards with a filler, and
the screw heads, and paint straight on the cardoard, or paper over it.

More npormally te whole shebang is used simply as a substaret for a
plastering job. In this case you can use clouts to hold it up, and every
joint beween tow bits of board gets a scrim tape slapped over it, to
provide some strength when its plastered to prevent cracks. Mostly this
works. Sometyyies it doesnt.

External edges on 90 degree bends are fragile things, so metral edged
beads are ande that can be nailed over the joint prior to plastering.
These provide a nice metal edge to plaster to, and also resist knocks
and bamngs.

Or you can chamfer off the plasterbaord and, when skimming, use a
radiused tool to form the plaster into a nice curve.

Putting up plasterbaord is very easy. Skimming it s not.




Also the board is available in straight and tapered edge,which is best
for a novice in this location??

Thanks

joe