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N. Thornton
 
Posts: n/a
Default Equivalent fluorescent power

Andy Hall wrote in message . ..
On Sat, 20 Mar 2004 23:58:56 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman
Andy Hall wrote:



This is OK for a workshop or perhaps at a pinch a study when working,
but not for reception rooms, bedrooms etc.


Think you've missed out kitchens - perhaps the most important workshop in
the average house.


No, I use small daylight type fluorescents only over worktop areas
while it's necessary and then revert to proper tungsten and halogen
lights apart from that. I'm not setting out to produce a commercial
kitchen and prefer softer lighting except when and where absolutely
necessary.


Daylights are not one of the better ones, theyre quite an old fl
technology.


Perhaps with mixing with some sort of proper tungsten lighting, there
are occasions where certain types of fluoresecent are just about OK,
but certainly not in isolation in a domestic setting.


If you conceal them by any one of a number of methods, and use decent
tubes, they're great - especially to give a choice of moods in a room.


I'm aware that there are different tube types and have tried many and
in different settings, but never found any that I like other than for
workshop applications.


Which ones have you tried? I like 3500k for general house use, and
some of the Philips numbered ones are good when a less warm light is
wanted, such as for daylight boosting, or working use. Look for high
CRI and low light temperature. There are also full spectrum tubes.


They also have the benefit of cool running, high efficiency and long life
with electronic ballasts.


Where I do use them I only use electronic ballasts. They are even
worse when run at mains frequency. I am sensitive to flicker from
phosphor devices like tubes and CRTs so find electronic ballasts
essential anyway


Fls running off high frequency ballasts supplied by dc are competely
flicker free. Not all electronic ballasts are flicker free. Filament
bulbs OTOH are not flicker free.


Regards, NT