I just scrolled down to a similiar post and found a website posted with a
picture of what i was just describing. This is how it should look- 3 pcs.
inside corner. Hope this clears things up! --dave
http://www.compoundmiter.com/images/cath1.jpg



"Dave Jackson" wrote in message
nk.net...
DON"T listen to the "expert". This is very possible, even easy, to do.
The "trick" is to use three pieces of crown to make up the corner. If
you start with a piece along the 8" wall, cut another piece as you
normally would, only smaller (like 1 foot or so) Then, cut the angle you
need to work the corresponding angle up the wall on the other side of the
short piece. Make sure the piece is as small as you can possibly make it
and still have the required angles needed to join each side. What you'll
ultimately end up with is a small piece with the angle cut to fit the
horizonal crown, (around the 31.9 deg. 31.6 deg.mark) on one side and
whatever angle is necessary to connect the crown running up the slope of
the ceiling. Once again, think two long pieces of crown connected with a
small transition piece in between them. It's NOT impossible, HOWEVER it
can look funny on larger mouldings, as the small transition piece will
come into the adjoining wall for a short distance before sloping up. Try
it out. The asthetics are what's important here, but it CAN be done by
any competent installer. If my instructions are not clear enough, please
send a request for more info, I'll do what i can to clarify
hings. --dave




"Robert Bonomi" wrote in message
...
In article ,
John wrote:
Have a friend who just had crown molding installed in his home, in the
living room the ceiling is rectangular, but the height at the rear
wall of the house is 8ft, the height on the opposite end is like
15-16ft.

The "expert" installing the molding told him it was IMPOSSIBLE to
cope/miter the corners and he instead installed decorative blocks at
each corner

Bottom line, was the installer incompotent and this was doable, and if
so, how is it done.

The installer *IS* _competent_.

The _only_ way to get a 'clean' join, where the join line is _not_
perpendicular to _both_ pieces, is to use different sizes of stock on
the two sides.

This requires "full custom" molding -- in *non-standard* dimensions --
which
probably means a "custom" molding cutter-head as well as the custom run.


The price for such 'stuff'?

"If you have to ask, you can't afford it" applies.


If it is NOT possible to miter/cope those joints,
is the decorative blocks the ONLY solution or are there other options.

Frankly, I think the decorative blocks look like ****


That they may, but things would look *much* worse without them.