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Dave Jackson
 
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DON"T listen to the "expert". This is very possible, even easy, to do.
The "trick" is to use three pieces of crown to make up the corner. If you
start with a piece along the 8" wall, cut another piece as you normally
would, only smaller (like 1 foot or so) Then, cut the angle you need to
work the corresponding angle up the wall on the other side of the short
piece. Make sure the piece is as small as you can possibly make it and still
have the required angles needed to join each side. What you'll ultimately
end up with is a small piece with the angle cut to fit the horizonal crown,
(around the 31.9 deg. 31.6 deg.mark) on one side and whatever angle is
necessary to connect the crown running up the slope of the ceiling. Once
again, think two long pieces of crown connected with a small transition
piece in between them. It's NOT impossible, HOWEVER it can look funny on
larger mouldings, as the small transition piece will come into the adjoining
wall for a short distance before sloping up. Try it out. The asthetics are
what's important here, but it CAN be done by any competent installer. If my
instructions are not clear enough, please send a request for more info, I'll
do what i can to clarify things. --dave




"Robert Bonomi" wrote in message
...
In article ,
John wrote:
Have a friend who just had crown molding installed in his home, in the
living room the ceiling is rectangular, but the height at the rear
wall of the house is 8ft, the height on the opposite end is like
15-16ft.

The "expert" installing the molding told him it was IMPOSSIBLE to
cope/miter the corners and he instead installed decorative blocks at
each corner

Bottom line, was the installer incompotent and this was doable, and if
so, how is it done.


The installer *IS* _competent_.

The _only_ way to get a 'clean' join, where the join line is _not_
perpendicular to _both_ pieces, is to use different sizes of stock on
the two sides.

This requires "full custom" molding -- in *non-standard* dimensions --
which
probably means a "custom" molding cutter-head as well as the custom run.


The price for such 'stuff'?

"If you have to ask, you can't afford it" applies.


If it is NOT possible to miter/cope those joints,
is the decorative blocks the ONLY solution or are there other options.

Frankly, I think the decorative blocks look like ****



That they may, but things would look *much* worse without them.