"Robert Bonomi" wrote in message
...
In article ,
John wrote:
Have a friend who just had crown molding installed in his home, in the
living room the ceiling is rectangular, but the height at the rear
wall of the house is 8ft, the height on the opposite end is like
15-16ft.

The "expert" installing the molding told him it was IMPOSSIBLE to
cope/miter the corners and he instead installed decorative blocks at
each corner

Bottom line, was the installer incompotent and this was doable, and if
so, how is it done.

The installer *IS* _competent_.

The _only_ way to get a 'clean' join, where the join line is _not_
perpendicular to _both_ pieces, is to use different sizes of stock on
the two sides.

Hi,
This is absolutely correct; the moulding that rakes will not be the same
profile as the molding that runs parallel to the floor. There is a quick way
to do it without blocks or custom runs: Turn the wall corner 90 (the first
turn) with one miter, and spring the rake angle from it (the second turn).
The complex angle is thereby divided between two cuts. The "transition"
piece will have 0 length on its top and a minimal length on the bottom -- a
wedge.
I avoid corner blocks at all costs.
Casey


This requires "full custom" molding -- in *non-standard* dimensions --
which
probably means a "custom" molding cutter-head as well as the custom run.


The price for such 'stuff'?

"If you have to ask, you can't afford it" applies.


If it is NOT possible to miter/cope those joints,
is the decorative blocks the ONLY solution or are there other options.

Frankly, I think the decorative blocks look like ****


That they may, but things would look *much* worse without them.