Barry, I actually made one of those based on your reply to a posted question
I had about cutting thin strips and it works great plus it gives me
something to do with old mouse pads. It won't work too well in this case as
I have to make sloped cuts in stock 2" high and 3/4" wide. The stock has to
be pushed through on the 3/4" edge so there is too much danger of the 2"
face moving away from the fence and there is only a 3/4" wide surface for me
to push down on. I did go with the featherboard approach with an 8" high
auxillary fence bolted to my main fence so I could really clamp down the
featherboard that pushes down on the stock.

Dick


"B a r r y" wrote in message
om...
Dick Snyder wrote:

To make this bevel cut (18 degrees) on my table saw I need to run a 2"
wide piece of 3/4 oak down the length of my table saw. I will be making
the cut into the 2" face. I am really worried about kickback or other
problems on this cut. If I keep a feather board on the table saw pushing
the board up against the fence and another featherboard on the fence
pushing the board down on the table, do you think that will work? What
do you think about this cut? What can I do to maximize my safety as well
as protect the wood from being screwed up?

Use a splitter, one of these,
http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/narrowstripripper2.jpg (Or pushblocks
that have a surface you don't care about), and possibly a helper if the
stock is very long.

Set the blade slightly higher than the wood, the pushblocks can run right
over the blade.

I greatly prefer this method over featherboards.

Barry