If they are the original blades, they are not carbide. I'd have to say
the problem is just technique. I spent a lot of time getting a couple
of jointer blades sharp because I found holding them at the correct
angle was problematic. I have no trouble with my chisels and plane
blades because I've got a honing guide.

It should only take a few minutes per grit.

David

Dukester wrote:

I suppose it's possible. How would I tell?

They are factory blades from a Ridgid 610 jointer. The manual (page 23 of
http://www.ridgid.com/CatalogDocs/jp0610_6442_eng.pdf states that they can
be honed on an oilstone and reground.


"David" wrote in message
...

Is there any chance you have carbide jointer blades?

David

Dukester wrote:


I've been trying to sharpen my 6" jointer blades with the the
sandpaper/scary sharp method as described he

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00003.asp

but for the life of me I cannot get them sharp. If anything they are

duller

than they were when I started. I have a set of Hirsch chisels that I

use

the same technique on and they will get sharp - very sharp. But after

going

through the grits 80, 120, 220, 320, 400 the jointer blade are just

plane

dull, heck the factory square edges are sharper than what I did.

I hold one blade flat along the glass with the front bevelled edge

acting as

a guide for the one I am trying to sharpen. As near as I can tell the

blade

stays in this position - I don't let it rotate on edge. In the article

they

don't even use a guide, they just "feel the beveled surface on the

paper".

I even mark the edges with a marker to make sure surface wears evenly.

How

long am I supposed to stay on each grit - seconds? minutes? hours? Is

it

even possible to sharpen jointer knives this way? I'm doing something

wrong

I know but can't tell what.


Dukester