Jeff:

First off, after sanding your floor, a test spot. Take a wet wash cloth to it.
this is the color that you will get after the Traffic.
I know my own 200 yr old floor is a deep red color just with Traffic.
Something to do with the age of the floor.
Then, take some Sealcoat and apply it to another small area to see what it
looks like.
As in the earlier post, you can tint the seal coat.
But with tinting, the color is not as colorfast as with pigmented stains.
(Direct sunlight)
And pine will get blotchy when stained, But you can also use a prestain.
I have other processes, but to keep it simple, try the two methods above first
to see if you like it.

And if you stain, you have to sand the floor to perfection, the soft pine will
show scratches from the edger and floor sander. Most flooring contractors will
not stain pine. It takes more time then they are willing to spend on a job.
TIM


Patriarch wrote:
"John" wrote in
:


wrote in message
...


Thanks. Would you think that "Traffic" would be suitible for red
pine
wide
boards? 6" to 12" wide?


Traffic would be fine for this.
It is hard, but will not get brittle like oil based poly.
I have it in a Bedroom in my house, 200 Year old wide plank white
pine 7"
to
15", Satin finish, and I like the look
It also comes in semi-gloss


One more question if you'd be kind enough to answer.

I just talked to the guys at BonaKemi and they suggested I do not
stain pine, due to uneven stain absorbsion. I really want the
old-amber look of pine since this floor is going into a 200 year old
house and water based finishes won't get me there. Have you had any
success with stain on pine before you poly? Bona makes their "Mega"
finish, but they told me that won't yellow as much as an oil poly.

Any suggestions on getting he look of an older pine floor with the
durability of water based finish like "Traffic"?

Thanks again for taking the time to share your expertise.

-Jeff

I'm not the floor pro who has been helping you, but I have a thought.

He suggested a shellac sealing coat between the raw floor and the
Bonkemi. Tinting shellac with something like Transtint is pretty
trivial, and can give you that hint of ambering that you seek. Just
plan to do the whole batch at once, and mix it well. You could either
use the Zinsser premixed, or something from Hock Finishes or Homestead,
in a dewaxed bulk flake. If using the flake, you could use the natural
colors of shellac as well. That 'pumpkin pine' color is pretty close to
what you'd likely get with a garnet shellac, and may be historically
accurate. Test in the closet.

www.homesteadfinishing.com
www.hockfinishes.com

Both companies are good folks with whom to deal.

Patriarch