Look at Fig 3 and 4, and notice that there is a cutting option which will
sever the fibers across their direction, regardless of their orientation,
except for the two pieces of face grain. Lay your toolrest at a point
below
center, roll your gouge onto its edge, taking care not to bury the nose -
easily done on narrow-flute bowl gouges - by rotating it slightly upward,
leaning part of the bevel on the wood for support. Broader gouges are
more
easily handled for this cut, but they're not called "bowl gouges," so a
lot
of people won't use 'em.

http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeor...dle-Hollow.jpg Shows
a
1/2 spindle gouge hogging,
http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeor...orged-Trim.jpg shows a
3/4 forged or Continental pattern gouge finishing. Same cut works to a
"T"
outside.
http://personalpages.tds.net/~upgeor...rged-Gouge.jpg

Best evidence that you're cutting the wood is that the chips don't fly
reactively, but drop as they are cut, running down the gouge or falling
directly. Your optimum shaving is smooth on the side cut by the edge, and
twisted to show you've got a good skewed bevel support.

the pictures would show technique better if the wood wasn't actually
being turned...and
we could see the tool position on the wood without the wood chips in the
way.
rich