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Dan
 
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I am just getting into metalworking, primarily with the aim of learning
small-scale machining and steel brazing. I would eventually like to be
able to fabricate small bicycle parts, such as shift levers and the
like. After reading through the "Home Machinist Handbook" I am still
just slightly confused about what pieces of equipment and hand tools I
will need.


Very tough question. The best place to start would be to take a course at a
local college or high school. For hand tools Ebay is your friend. You can
save some big bucks by buying there. Watch the auctions for a couple of
weeks and get a feel for prices and condition of items, then go ahead and
bid. Don't fall in love with anything, and don't get into a bidding war. For
hand tools I would start with something like this:

0-1" Micrometer. - Look for one in new or near new condition with carbide
faces that reads in "tenths" (.0001"). My experience is that people overpay
for the Starrett name, and there are better micrometers than theirs by far,
I'm not saying don't buy their stuff, just don't overpay. No matter what
item Starrett makes I can give you a brand that is superior, and often sells
for less on Ebay. Look for Etalon, Tesa, Helios, Mitutoyo, Starrett, or
Brown & Sharpe for a micrometer. (I never liked B&S mikes myself). Older
brands that are good - Lufkin, Scheer Tumico, J.T.Slocomb. A Slocomb
Speedmike in good shape would be great for a beginner. They usually go for
around ten to fifteen bucks in like new condition. Older Craftsman (Sears)
micrometers that were made in Germany and Japan were made by Helios, and
Mitutoyo. Any Craftsman made after the mid 80's is usually junk. Another
option would be a digital mike. Mitutoyos are pretty affordable, and they
are probably the best. Add 1-2", 2-3", 3-4" as budget permits.

Six+ inch Vernier caliper, dial caliper, digital caliper. Wether you go with
a vernier, dial, or digital is really up to you. I would be very leery about
buying this tool used. The potential for abuse and damage is pretty high.
Often there are new ones listed and I would wait for one of these. The
brands I would look for would be:
Digital (good accuracy)- Mitutoyo, Brown & Sharpe, Starrett.
Dial (least accurate)- Brown & Sharpe (I like theirs best), Mitutoyo,
Helios, Tesa, Etalon. I'm not wild about the Starret that I had, it was too
soft. But if it's a good deal...
Vernier (most accurate) - Starrett make a damn good vernier caliper. Etalon,
Helios, and Brown & Sharpe are also very good. Mitutoyos are a little light
and don't have as good of a feel as the others.

Square - Buy a good quality six inch machinist square. Or make one with a
file and band saw like they made me do back in the old days. Well you'd
still need a good square to check it against, or a surface plate. Ahh, just
buy one.

Combination Square - Buy a Starrett or Miyutoyo four piece (Center finder,
protrator, square, and rule). Be aware that there are different grades, you
want precision, not carpentry. Get a 12" blade for starters. Add longer and
shorter blades later as you find them.

Calipers, compass, assorted lay out tools. - You can get these cheap on
Ebay. Look for someone auctioning off an assortment. You will get a better
deal that way.

Center Punch - You'll need one for lay out work. This is a great lathe
project for your new lathe.

Carbide scribe - General is as good as anything. Actually you can buy most
any brand, and it will be OK.

Six inch scale - Starrett or Mitutoyo. Older Lufkins and General's in good
shape are OK too.

Dial Test Indicater - I've used them all, and I use them often, so I'm a bit
of a DTI snob. I would buy a .0005" and a .0001". If your budget is tight
buy the .0005". In order of quality - Compac, Brown & Sharpe Best Test,
Interapid, Mitutoyo. The Mitutoyo is just OK. Every other brand I've used
has proven over time to be junk. Starrett, Gem, Peacock, Teclock, Pic, etc..
All junk. Spend money wisely on this tool. You will also want an assortment
of adapters for your DTI.

Magnetic base - I've used them all. Starrett mag bases are the nicest. But I
would buy a cheap knock off, that has an on/off switch and a V in the base.
Make sure it has a fine adjust knob. I would also buy a very small China one
that is not switchable. They are around ten bucks and worth every penny.

Dial indicater - Buy a .001" to start. Get at least one inch travel. Two
inch would be better. This will likely be your "DRO" on your first lathe for
a while. Buy a tip assortment and a test stand as budget permits. Make sure
you have the adapters you need to use this with your mag bases.

Files - Buy good quality assorted files, and file handles. I like Nicholson
myself. Also get a file card to clan the files with. You'll be surprised how
often you use this lowly tool.

Hack saw - same as above.

Tap handles and die stock. - Sooner or later you'll want to put a thead on
or in something.

Drill assortment - You'll be wanting to put holes in stuff. If you buy a
good quality U.S. brand you'll never regret spending the extra money.

Dykem - Get a bottle for lay out work.

Power hand tools - A good sabre saw, sawz-all, VSR drill, and a Dremel are
all handy to have.

There are tons of other tools you'll need or want, but this will give you a
good start.

I assume at minimum I am going to need a lathe and a mill, but am a bit
baffled by the variety of these, particularly in terms of price for the
micro/desktop units (from around $350 all the way up to $5000). The
sort of questions I have a is it reasonable to buy a combo
lathe/mill unit, or is it better to have dedicated equipment? Is the
low-end stuff (Harbor Freight) decent enough to get going or is it a
waste of money? If I know I eventually may want CNC capability, what is
the best mill to buy for the money?


If you have the room and power, I would buy a used industrial knee mill.
Look for a used good quality mill. If it were my money I wouldn't buy a
Bridgeport. They are the most popular and command a premium which is not
deserved based on quality or rigidity. Look for a good quality lesser known
brand. Gorton, Alliant, Sharp, Atrump, Wells-Index, Induma, etc.. I recently
saw a very nice (spotless table, good chrome) Alliant with a DRO, work
light, vise, collets, and some tooling sell for around $1,000.00 on Ebay.
Same week an old round ram Bridgeport that looked hammered to death and worn
out sell for over $2,500.00 with no extras. I would start with a knee mill,
you can use it as a lathe in a pinch. Try and find a deal that includes a
vise, collets, and some tooling. All that stuff adds up. Bonus for DRO,
indexing head, rotary table, clamp set, or boring head.

As for a lathe, a toolmakers lathe would be nice but they are pretty spendy.
Monarch EE, Hardinge HLV, or a Harrison AA. All hard to find and all fairly
expensive. SO, an engine lathe would be your best bet. I like a 14" X 40",
but that might be a bit big for your needs. South Bend and Logans are easy
to find, many of them are set up for household current. I recently saw a
bunch of Nardini lathes being auctioned from a school. Something like that
would be a good way to go as well. I would want a machine that has the
ability to power feed and thread. I think good industrial quality used is
better than low quality new, but to each their own. Look for something that
includes a three jaw chuck, four jaw chuck, steady rest, functioning tail
stock, tool post and some tooling. Bonus for 5C collet closer, quick change
tool post, DRO, coolant pump, Drill chuck, and toolholders.

Also, what other types of fabrication equipment are generally found to
be indispensible for making things like, say, specialty washers,
pulleys, ratchet gears/catches, etc.?


Lathe and mill will do most of that stuff. For high quality gears you would
need a hobber, not really a home shop kind of thing, but if you are making
them in quantity, it might be worth looking in to an old one. The tooling
would be a killer though. If you're serious about all this, a surface
grinder might be in order. You can use it to make and sharpen tools, as well
as grind tight tolerance parts you might want to make. At the very least you
should get a pedestal grinder and a belt sander.

A broad (perhaps stupid) question, I know, but I am just not finding a
complete answer in my books or other sources, so thought I just go
ahead and seek advice from those who know, since I really do not want
to waste money on tools or capability I simply don't need. Any input
appreciated.


Again, taking a course will give you a better idea of what you'll need. If
you buy good equipment and get a good deal on it, you should have no problem
selling it later. You'll be out freight costs which can be considerable.

Dan