"Mook Johnson" wrote in
:
I have some 12" x 7" x 9" MDF speaker boxes that I sould like to put a
veneer on for indoor home use.
I don't have access to a vacuum bag or cold press so contact cement or
iron on techniques are my main focus at the moment. I have limited my
veneer choice to the paperbacked variety since it has the best chance
with the contact cement method.
I'm considering the following methods of glueing.
1) contact cement both veneer and mdf, let dry to the touch. Recoat if
necessary (how do I know if there is too much glue?)and let dry.
Install wax paper on the MDF with a cut in the middle and put veneer
on top of that. Slide the two wax paper pieces apart and press veneer
and MDF together working from inside out with a piece of rounded over
6" x 12" 1" wood stock instead of a "J" roller for the most pressure.
2) apply regular yellow glue in a similar fashon to the contact cement
and let dry(again how do I know when there is too much?). using a
towel or foil to prevent burning, press pieces together with an iron
and "reactiviate" the dried glue. (i'm told that I can use any veneer
for this and not just paperbacked.
3) use some stuff called HeatLock from here.
http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/glues.htm
I've recently been using method #2 here this last week, for applying
some shopmade peruvian walnut and honduran mahogany veneers over baltic
birch. I was surprised, it works quite well.
Veneering is an eye opener for me. I often run across a short board
with some awesome figure in it, but usually it's too small for making a
full project. But sliced into veneer, it goes a long way.
My advice: don't go too thin on the glue, iron it on after only about
an hour, and use the highest heat setting. Different glues have
different activation temps ... Titebond I activates pretty low at just
over 100C, but Titebond II activates at about 190C (cotton/linen setting
on the iron). I use Titebond II. I iron straight on the wood (it takes
a lot of heat), and remove the light scorch marks by scraping/sanding.