"res055a5" skrev i melding
news:_wdFd.6969$u47.6373@trnddc09...
So I've been playing with my new chuck...don't happen to own a dovetail
scraper, so I
used a skew chisel to cut the dovetail. Cut it at an angle all the way to
the bottom of the
hole I turned, which was the same distance as from the face of the chuck
to
the end of the chuck.
I noticed that the chuck dovetails for only about half that distance, but
didn't think that would matter.
It apparently did matter because my piece flew off the chuck a couple of
times. So I tried mounting it
where the dovetail ended and the straight part started and so far that
seems
to have worked. I have
reservations about whether I should make the hole bigger and turn it
dovetail for half the distance and
straight for the other half. that way the face of the chuck would make
sure
that my wood was straight.
directions for the chuck seem a little vague (I'm dumb??).
rich

Can it really be neccessary with all this shaping and tooling?
I use a Oneway talon.
To make the recess I use a Forstner-bit of 2" diameter,
and a depth of 3 - 5mm, depending on the size of the blank.
This gives just a litte clearance when the chuck is compressed.
Then I roughturn the piece, and make a new hole on the opposite side
with a straight parting tool.
After I turn the piece, I clean the first hole with my parting tool,
so as to make sure the two holes are exactly parallell.

I have never lost a piece, except because of faulty wood.

If I had the dovetail jaws, I would still use the exact same method.
I do not see why it should not work equally well.

This scraping business seems somewhat excessive.

Bjarte