Why do you have to get all snooty?

I see you missed the point completely Matt.

[Fine, I won't reply to any of your questions in future, as I risk
missing your point. Perhaps next time you would start out your post
with: This is a question for ANYONE BUT MATT].

One of the legs ISN'T drawing too much current, it's just resistive
heating in the switch
contacts which increases over time until it gets hot enough to make the

fuse fail from heat, NOT current overload. FWIW my Amprobe says that
what's flowing out of one leg is flowing into the other and verse-visa.

(Should have said so before you got all snooty)

And, it hasn't always been the same leg which heats a fuse clip enough
to make the fuse fail either.

[Good. Then they both do it. That's MUCH better.]

If you can explain why Matt, I'll be all ears.

[Something about how there are 5 billion fused disconnects in the
world, but ONLY YOURS is overheating. Dunno though, I guess you just
got the same bad model, not once, BUT TWICE.]

For those who don't know how a GE fused disconnect is constructed; One
side of the each of the supply end fuse clips is flat, not curved, and
is used as stationary contacts for the spring loaded switch arm to
slide
into engagement with. So, any resistive heating occuring at those
contacts gets conducted directly to the fuse end cap.

[Then why the **** are you even asking for opinions? Sounds like you
are a master electrician, and an expert at how disconnects are
manufactered. Congratulations! You just answered ALL your own
questions. Next time, save us the trouble and just stay silent.

[On second thought - tear out that fused disconnect and REPLACE IT NOW
with a non fused one.]