Matt wrote:

Im not a licsenced (See - I can't even spell it) electrician (personal
attackes from those who are are welcome), but it seems to you have
something out of balance with how the load is distributed from the
fused disconnect. (Your comments about 1 fuse burning; at least one of
the legs is drawing more than it should be).

I see you missed the point completely Matt. One of the legs ISN'T
drawing too much current, it's just resistive heating in the switch
contacts which increases over time until it gets hot enough to make the
fuse fail from heat, NOT current overload. FWIW my Amprobe says that
what's flowing out of one leg is flowing into the other and verse-visa.

And, it hasn't always been the same leg which heats a fuse clip enough
to make the fuse fail either.


Anyway - no, DO NOT replace it with a non fused disconnect, at least
until you find the cause of the problem and have it corrected.
Otherwise, all you are going to do is see or smell something else
heating up somewhere, probably followed by your house becoming
extremely warm.


If you can explain why Matt, I'll be all ears.

For those who don't know how a GE fused disconnect is constructed; One
side of the each of the supply end fuse clips is flat, not curved, and
is used as stationary contacts for the spring loaded switch arm to slide
into engagement with. So, any resistive heating occuring at those
contacts gets conducted directly to the fuse end cap.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public
schools"