Clear Cut wrote:
In article ,
(Krystonia5) wrote:


has anybody tried the self-sharpening kits for chain saw chains? It looks
like some kind of bracket to hold the blade, and a hand file to sharpen it.
I bought a cheap McCulloh chain saw and the chain got dull after only a couple
hours of use, and i bought a new chain, but this one got duller even faster.
perhaps it's an oil flow problem...dunno.

So i don't know if it should take both chains to a sharpening shop, or if i
should go buy an expensive high quality chain (which brand?), or if I should
buy the hand sharpening kit?

Thx,,,paul


The Forestry site on About.com has a great list of links about chainsaws.

http://forestry.about.com/od/chainsaws/

A sharp chain is safer and easier to use. Learn how to sharpen one with
a correctly sized round file and angle guide. It is easy. Setting the
blade in a vise makes it much easier.

Vice is essential for a beginner.

A bit more difficult is setting the correct depth on the rakers with a
flat file. For folks that don't do this often a professional sharpening
or new chain every so often may be the way to go.

You won't need to do that until you have sharpened it many
times. Filing the rakers down is no problem. But if you
are new and something strange is happening, get a new chain,
or have a professional file it. Depending on size a
professional sharpening may cost more than a new chain.


How can you tell if a saw is sharp - chips instead of saw dust. A well
sharpened chain will cut quickly, cleanly and not pull to one side.

Long slivers is sharp, short slivers is getting dull,
sawdust is very very dull. Pulling to the side or cutting a
curve can happen with a sharp chain and may well mean the
bar needs to be filed. Or it may simply mean the teeth on
one side were filed sharper than the teeth on the other
side. It's important to sharpen both sides evenly.


Whenever you use a chainsaw, seriously consider safety equipment.
Eye/face, ear, and leg protection at a minimum - especially for the
unskilled. Proper safety equipment may cost more than you saw, but it's
cheaper than a trip to the emergency room. I rarely see a professional
logger wearing chaps that don't have at least one cut in them.

Safety equipment or not, the most important safety features
are to keep both hand on the chain saw, know where you are
walking, and put it down when you are the least bit tired.


Not intending to take anything away from what you said,
Clear Cut, but just amplifying.