My only thought is that they are overtorqued. What size are they?

I have problems with #10's I use , but it usually shreds the socket or
the allen key.

I don't know the specifics, but follow me here. you have a rubber
gasket? if they are being tightened unevenly, rather than as you would a
cylinder head, the first ones tightened might be really overtorqued when
you tighten the last as the cover levers down.

Perhaps the galvy is grabbing the head; never seize or clean the plating
out of the c'sink.

They aren't metric are they? 90 degree in an 82 csink?

Try using a small impact gun [3/8 drive or chinese 1/2 drive] to exract
them, sometimes the knock will break them loose




Joe wrote:
We use some decent flat head screws on our units and I've run into a strange
problem. When we tighten them into the aluminum housings, they hold a
galvanized plate in place. After about 10 minutes of being on there, they
are almost impossible to get off.

We have turned the highest quality allen keys we can find into pretzels and
have stripped many using impact and a shorter length. Sometimes we have
success by using a chisel to "spin" the flat head loose but that's the
Neanderthal method I'd like to avoid... Even that fails 50% of the time.
We can't use heat because there is a rubber seal in the aluminum very close.

The flat head actually grabs onto the galv. plate so well that our customers
(and us!) have to drill them out 8 out of 10 times we need to remove them...

Anyone know of a super allen key or some other method of removing these that
might work? We know that when we use painted plates, we have less of a
problem and have considered painting the countersink of each flat head hole,
but that's crazy in the big scheme of things...

Thoughts, wisdom and random visits from friends welcome.

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
http://www.autodrill.com
http://www.multi-spindle-heads.com

V8013

My eBay: http://tinyurl.com/4hpnc