On 11 Jan 2005 00:30:59 -0800, "
wrote:

i was wondering if it was possible to make straight cuts in 26 -22 ga
steel (zinc coated and otherwise) with my table saw. i was planning on
using a 3/4" plywood or mdf sled with toggle clamps as hold down. it
seems kinda obvious that this kind of support would be necessary for
nice clean cuts without bending the crap out of the relatively thin
metal. my question is, is this even possible with ANY blade on a table
saw? i have NO idea what type of blade would cut the metal safely.
can anyone recommend anything besides shears? i've tried and they just
didnt cut it.... no pun intended. ok maybe it was. =)
thanks
handsome greg

While I don't know, or care, if your handsome, having done just this
very thing last evening, I might be able to help.

First, go to www.mcmaster.com and go to page 2220 of their catalog.
For my project, I was trying to cut 2.5mm wide slices from type 316ss
sheet that was 0.024" thick. I used their part number 45615A117, which
is listed as a high performance cutoff wheel (6"diax0.040"thick) with
5/8" arbor, which is what you will need for a typical table saw. I had
some issues with blade flex, and generating too much heat in the work
piece. If I did it all over again, I would pick their part number
45615A52 (6"diax1/16") with 5/8" arbor. Besides being about 50%
thicker, it is also coarser grit. Heck, at $3.45ea, buy a couple of
each type and find what works better for you. As others here will tell
you, McMaster is a great company to order from. If you are anywhere
near one of their depots, expect your order next day, even with
standard shipping. At an absolute outside, 3 days. Expect reasonable
shipping charges.

A couple of notes on procedure. Clean the saw well BEFORE use. All
sawdust buildup MUST be removed. DON'T use your dust collector, if you
have one attached. There will be a lot of sparks, and I'm sure you
don't need a fire to make the experience more interesting. I had to
screw a wood block to one edge of my piece of sheet metal to keep it
from going under the saw fence; you will likely have to do the same. I
found the best performance was with the blade sticking about 1" proud
of the table. With the wood block against the fence, I carefully
pushed the work into the blade with a set of rubber coated push blocks
and never had an issue with binding or catching. You could also rig up
some kind of sled arrangement. I also zero clearance throat insert to
keep the cutoffs above the table.

Stay alert and good luck.

David Glos