When I was preparing my 4x6 H/V saw for use, I removed the gearbox pulley
and installed a tap handle (the kind that has two opposed handles) as a
temporary winding handle.
This allowed me to run numerous rotations easily while viewing the blade
tracking. I could adjust the pitch/tracking adjustment of the freewheeling
wheel while checking for the desired blade travel results.

The other recommendations for high blade tension is correct. When you pick
the blade with a fingernail, instead of a short sound, the twang should be
more of a sustained sound.

WB
.................

"aribert" wrote in message
...
I have an old '50s vintage Craftsman horizontal 4 x 6 cut off saw -
predates the H/V stuff from today but the same general configuration. I
bought it in very used but functional condition about 15 years ago. A
couple of years ago the blade would not keep from coming off of the
wheels. Specifically the blade walks off of the non-driven wheel within
2 to 3 rotations of the wheel. I put the machine aside as I did not
have time to mess with it. Now I am trying to get it working again -
not that I have any more time to mess with it now but I am getting quite
annoyed at something that occupies space but is non functional.

So far I have: made a new bushing for the non driven wheel to keep it
from wobbling - no effect other than the wheel rotates smoothly with out
wobbling. I have installed the wheel backwards so that the teeth of the
blade ride on the wheel flange - this actually works to keep the blade
from walking off of the wheel but wears out the teeth and is chewing up
the flange on the wheel. I have replaced the tire - no positive
effect. I have tried 2 other blades no improvement. Knowing that belt
sanders use crown in the drums to keep the belt aligned, I tried to put
a bit of taper on the wheel under the tire. I put a couple of narrow
strips of aluminum foil tape (total build up of 0.008 inch) on the edge
of the wheel opposite of the flange (heel of the blade) hoping that the
cross sectional taper of the wheel would drive the blade down the
incline and that the backside (heel) of the blade would ride up against
the flange of the wheel - again no luck. I am flat out of ideas.
Suggestions please. If you are replying direct, remove the "nospam" in
my address. TIA.