JB,
I have had no experience with "ancient kuari wood" but have made cribbage
boards from over 35 domestic and exotic species See
http://5thpeg.com Plain
sawn softer hardwoods are the worst for tearout i.e. basswood, poplar, ash,
oak. Quartersawn and highly figured woods are the worst for deflecting bits
and ending up with holes out of alignment.
Prevention of tearout is most easily done using brad point end-mill bits in
a drill press that has been well tuned to minimize vibration. These bits
are expensive but give you clean holes. ( a 1/4" carbide tipped bit is ~
$90)
Designing your own indexing jig for a drill press with this type of bit will
give you perfectly aligned holes. Starting with a little extra thickness
will allow sanding out any minor chipout. (Planing is an excellent idea if
you can ensure yourself your not going to end up with snipe).
Finsihing previous to drilling will do little to prevent tear out. DO NOT
attempt to redrill the holes to remove finish. This will lead to tearout
even where there was none before. My advice is to hone the holes after you
have applied your final finish to the board. One way to do this is to use
the same size bit as you drilled the holes with and chuck it upside down in
a portable drill and use it to ream the holes.
As you have already stated all of this is best done on "non-precious" wood
until you have worked all the "bugs" out of your techniques. I hope these
ideas provide you with some useful insight. Good luck.
Dave
5th Peg
"J.B. Bobbitt" wrote in message
...
I know it sounds pretty easy: get a nice board, drill the holes, play
cribbage. But I got problems.
I'm making two boards for my daughters (we've played since they could
count and add; they're teenagers now), so they've got to be perfect. So I
got a verrrrrrry nice board (see separate post for "ancient kauri wood").
I also bought the continuous track cribbage template from Rockler, which
spec's using a Vix bit for the holes. I've taken the Wreck's advice,
test/practice before you f*** it up. Most cribbage boards/pegs use
"standard" 1/8" or 9/64" holes.
Problems:
1. The Vix bit (No. 9, 9/64") doesn't make a clean hole (in other scrap;
I have no scrap of the good board). The peg holes are closely spaced
(0.20" on center); there's enough tearout between holes to discourage me
from using it. I can't find a 9/64" brad point bit. Pluswhich, the Vix
bit housing spins enough to counter sink the plexiglass template enough to
make me worry about using the template too many times.
2. I'm not keen on drilling hundreds of holes with a 1/8" brad point bit
without a template. (I don't like the template I got anyway, but that's
my fault. I'd prefer to use a 4-track pattern, e.g. Dreuke
CribbageMaster).
3. I had planned on finishing the boards with shellac before I drilled
the holes, but the tearout problem has me re-thinking that. But, I don't
like the prospect of finishing the boards after drilling the peg holes,
because the shellac will fill the holes (I'm pretty sure it will,
anyhow), and I'd have to re-drill the holes afterwards, again without a
template.
OK, any or you Wreckers made cribbage boards out of wood you're reluctant
to screw up? Any insight? Or flames?
As always, thanks a heap.
-jbb