On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 20:15:24 -0800, Socal Woodworker
wrote:

You might want to upgrade the drill bit. Woodcraft has a line of good
bits that are available in 64/ sizes. Good luck 15-2 15-4 and a run for 7


J.B. Bobbitt wrote:

I know it sounds pretty easy: get a nice board, drill the holes, play
cribbage. But I got problems.

I'm making two boards for my daughters (we've played since they could count
and add; they're teenagers now), so they've got to be perfect. So I got a
verrrrrrry nice board (see separate post for "ancient kauri wood"). I also
bought the continuous track cribbage template from Rockler, which spec's
using a Vix bit for the holes. I've taken the Wreck's advice,
test/practice before you f*** it up. Most cribbage boards/pegs use
"standard" 1/8" or 9/64" holes.

Problems:

1. The Vix bit (No. 9, 9/64") doesn't make a clean hole (in other scrap; I
have no scrap of the good board). The peg holes are closely spaced (0.20"
on center); there's enough tearout between holes to discourage me from using
it. I can't find a 9/64" brad point bit. Pluswhich, the Vix bit housing
spins enough to counter sink the plexiglass template enough to make me worry
about using the template too many times.

2. I'm not keen on drilling hundreds of holes with a 1/8" brad point bit
without a template. (I don't like the template I got anyway, but that's my
fault. I'd prefer to use a 4-track pattern, e.g. Dreuke CribbageMaster).

3. I had planned on finishing the boards with shellac before I drilled the
holes, but the tearout problem has me re-thinking that. But, I don't like
the prospect of finishing the boards after drilling the peg holes, because
the shellac will fill the holes (I'm pretty sure it will, anyhow), and I'd
have to re-drill the holes afterwards, again without a template.

OK, any or you Wreckers made cribbage boards out of wood you're reluctant to
screw up? Any insight? Or flames?

As always, thanks a heap.
-jbb




My suggestion is to get the best drill bit you possibly can and keep
it dead sharp throughout the entire process.

You run into a very similar problem when you're doing chip carving on
some tropical hardwoods. I'm doing a project in padauk right now so
this is kind of at the top of my mind. The best way I've found to
mitigate it is to get the tool sharp, sharp, sharp.

Another thing you might try is putting a layer of masking tape over
the surface and drill through the tape. That will tend to hold the
wood surface in place and make it less susceptible to tear out.

Finally: Super glue the tiny torn out fragments back in place. Done
right it's almost invisible.

--RC

"Sometimes history doesn't repeat itself. It just yells
'can't you remember anything I've told you?' and lets
fly with a club.
-- John W. Cambell Jr.