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DanG wrote:
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pre wrap=""A sharp blade in a table saw has always given me good results.
You can sure tell when the blade is not sharp!!!!!

It also helps to use a zero clearance insert or put your plastic
on a sacrificial scrap of plywood.

If you want a really nice edge, run it past a router bit. It will
not work well for cutting the material - it tends to get the
plastic hot and stringy, but it great for taking a light finish
pass.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" t/a



"wolfb" a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" "<stampwo >/a wrote in message
a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" "news:cr6g /a...
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pre wrap=""Anyone familiar with plexigalss cutting? Typically the sheets
come in .08 or .10 for most applications like picture frames,
replacement panes etc. I'm not sure what they are measured in as
..08 is just about 1/6" or a little less than 3mm. I have had
some success with a utility knife...scoring along a straight
edge and then snapping the plexiglass, but that is not very
clean. I have previously tried using my table saw, but I must
have used a blade that was to course as the plexi chipped no
matter how slow I fed it. I know of the old trick of turning the
blade backwards and basically burning the piece. How do you all
do it? Any good pointers?
Cheers!
Wolf-==-

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You want a really thin carbide-tipped blade to get a smooth cut with no
melted flash.  The Matsu****a 7¼" combination blade is perfect for this.br
br
In Boatbuilder, May/June 98, Thomas Firth Jones said about cutting
acrylic sheet “Myself , I’ve fallen in love with the 7¼”br
Matsu****a blade...It doesn’t have that many teeth but whatever you put
through it comes out looking as if it had been planed and its 1/16”
kerf makes light work of ripping heavy teak as well as plastic.  It’s
my best new tool in years.”  They are available from various sources,
but I also sell them.br
br
Dave Carnellbr
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