On Fri, 24 Dec 2004 08:49:06 -0500, Nova
calmly ranted:

The blade friction is still there and has to be overcome. Unless the blade slips on
the wheels the torque is taken by the frame. Think of it as pushing a rope which is
the reason for barreled cuts.

I think of it as the wheel pulling the teeth down, into the wood. The
majority of the tension on the blade is between the table and the
bottom wheel on the downward side. Since the wheels are connected,
there may be a very minor amount of "pushing", but the fact that the
band is laying on the -outside- of the wheels precludes much of that.
Any attempt at pushing would simply make space between the blade and
the wheel, and that could come only if there was no tension on the
blade at all. No, it is my understanding that barrel cuts are the
result of insufficient tension on the blade.


No, I meant the wider blade and higher tension. But did you tell him
you'd be using low-tension Suffolk Timberwolfs? (Or were you?) How
much difference in mass could the longer/wider blade make? 8 ounces?
That slim margin would easily be quintupled by extra tension on the
original bandsaw with the original spring. Inertial mass _can't_ be
it.

The only part I can see being stressed by having a larger motor would
be the lower wheel (major) and its bearing (minor). Startup might be
quicker, creating higher initial (and inertial) stress, and it would
be able to do more work when making heavy cuts while resawing. The
upper wheel and frame are merely used as guides for the band.

I just don't buy that C-frame flex thing at all. Wider bands and the
higher tension needed to run them would be the only cause of frame
stress that I can see. No, I take that back. The frame may have more
stress AT the lower wheel bearing mount during heavy cuts. The wheel
being slightly deflected upward up would also result in lower tension
on the blade, with the tension spring attempting to take up that
slack.

Maybe the guy at Griz could expand on his concerns. I'd be very
interested (despite having their old heavy-duty 18" G1012.)


I normally use a 1/2" Timberwolf blade which Suffolk recommended for the saw. I
tried there 3/4" and as Suffolk predicted the saw can't handle the tensions produced
by the added blade friction of the extra 1/4" blade width while resawing. It is
especially noticeable when attempting to saw "green" lumber (i.e. milling short logs
into boards) which has more of a tendency to bind the blade.

Yeah, and they make resaw blades for both green and dried wood,
with different set, hook angles, gullet depth, etc. for each one.

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