Split mold will be easier in the long run. Cool VERY slowly and keep
feeding wax to compensate for shrinkage . The outside freezes first so
they tend to shrink from the ends and can even suck a void from the top
as the core freezes up last. You want the whole thing to be at about
the crystallization temperature at about the same time which may require
warming the mold and holding the whole thing in a warm environment as it
cools. Temperature differential from the outside to the core is your enemy.

For a high gloss finish, line your mold with a sheet of mylar. This
should be available from many hobby stores. Mylar has one heck of a
smooth finish and is also self releasing. We used to use it on resin
castings and could peel it off without any release agent, leaving the
equivalent of a polished surface without the work.

Koz

Bob Chilcoat wrote:

I've been asked by our Pastor to cast a 3" x 22" "Christ Candle". I haven't
been able to find a candle mold this big. I have a few feet of new 3" PVC
pipe that I can make into a mold, but the inside is rippled from the
extrusion process. Any suggestions as to the best way to make the inside of
this true and smooth so that the candle can be extracted after molding?
I''ve thought of running a cylinder hone down it, but this will probably not
do exactly what I want, and will leave a grooved surface.

I've thought of buying a piece of 3" copper drain pipe, but this will be
expensive and may be unobtainable in a two-foot lenght. I don't have slip
rollers, so I can't see how I could roll a mold. Any other suggestions?

Thanks for any help or advice you can offer.

--
Bob (Chief Pilot, White Knuckle Airways)

I don't have to like Bush and Cheney (Or Kerry, for that matter) to love
America