In article ,
AJS wrote:
"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
With both the male and female tapers totally cleaned and
degreased with acetone?
Nope. I am weary of having it seize. It's in an unheated location Etc.
Should not be a problem. The fit is tight enough to keep
moisture and oxygen out.
If you really want to keep them out, once it is assembled
tightly, you can put some oil where they join -- but it is not going to
go into the seated taper.
[ ... ]
Does your drill press have a removable arbor, or is the spindle
the male taper?
Yes. Chuck and Arbour are separated and sitting besides me now.
Good.
Once that is out, you can replace both arbor and chuck if the
Jacobs taper on both (or either) is damaged. (If the drill press is a
Chinese or Taiwanese import, this will probably also make things run
more true as well, as the chucks supplied with these are somewhat
unpredictable.)
It is a moderately prices Chinese unit. The supplier imports and checks each
unit. Then the tool shop I bought it from also assembled and checked it. I
have pulled it down, cleaned and reoiled 85% of it. I just wiped the chuck
fitting over and did not degrease them.
Run out is bloody good. Just over one thou off the arbour (also checked the
spindle). Checked with the spindle seated, mid range and fully extended. Far
better than I was expecting.
You got a really good one, then. (Though having a really nice
Albrecht keyless chuck can speed operations for you -- and no danger of
anyone forgetting a key in the chuck and turning it on. ;-)
What kind of runout do you find on a chucked drill blank? The
chuck itself can also contribute to that -- and that is often the worst
part of the setup.
To join the chuck to the separate arbor, clean both male and
female taper as before. Then go to a piece of wood (a chunk of 2x4 on
the concrete floor will work well), and holding the assembled pair, hit
the end of the arbor onto the wood, letting the mass of the chuck seat
it firmly.
Okay 
That is what I do, regularly.
Then align the key on the arbor so it will go all the way up
into the socket in the spindle, back it off an inch or two, and then
slam it into the spindle, letting the mass of the chuck and arbor seat
it firmly. After this, you will need the drill drift key to remove the
arbor from the spindle, and a set of Jacobs taper wedge forks to remove
the chuck from the arbor.
Okay I will give it ago. I am always a bit weary of rust/seizing which is
why I didn't remove all the oil.
You can oil the remaining surfaces, once both tapers are seated.
But in the mated tapers, I don't think that you'll see any rust, unless
you do something like wiping down the taper with acid or iodine just
prior to seating it. :-)
Thanks for your help.
You're welcome.
Good Luck,
DoN.
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