Since a 6201zz is about $6, walk it off with an air chisel.


"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I have an old wood lathe live center. The shank unthreads so then you
can push out the tip. That leaves the body, which is a steel cylinder
bored to receive a 6201 bearing which has been in there about 50 years.
The threaded shank hole in the back is smaller than the bearing bore.

Here's what I've tried so far, with the results:

NOTE: I did several heat cycles interspersed with liberal applications of
Kroil first to see if I could get it to work loose. Ha!

1. turned a piece of scrap to about .0005" clearance in the bearing bore
and threaded in the shank (making the bearing bore effectively a blind
hole)
and filled the hole with light grease and tried to punch it out using the
hydraulic force of the grease. You never saw such a thin sheet of grease
extruded, wish I could have taken a picture. Bearing 1, Grant 0

2. cleaned bore and scrap piece immaculately by boiling in TSP followed
by a hot water rinse and a quick acetone wipe with a Q-tip, then glued the
scrap piece into the bore using Gorilla Glue. After setup time, the arbor
press promptly broke the glue joint. Bearing 2, Grant 0

3. made a "washer" slightly bigger than the bearing bore and ground 2
flats
on its edges and filed a bevel around the crown until it just snapped down
into the little crack between the bearing and the back of the body. Arbor
press easily dished out the washer and popped it out. Bearing solidly in
place -- Bearing 3, Grant 0.

I'm considering taking my piece of scrap, cleaning off the monkey glue,
pushing it a bit into the bore, and *welding* it to the bearing bore
using 3/32" 7018 lo-hy rod at about 60 amps. I'm also considering
grinding randomly with a carbide burr in a die grinder inside the bearing
bore to roughen it up, and try gluing again, maybe with JB Weld.

Final solution is to remake the body. I can't let this bearing win,
though!!

Ideas?

Grant Erwin