On Mon, 13 Dec 2004 06:15:00 GMT, "gary"
wrote:

| The roll on always looks cheesy and amateurish. The spray on texture looks
| professional. I did my own knock down ceilings for the first time a year
| ago and they look great! I bought a gun and a knockdown knife as it was
| cheaper than renting as I am slowly going through my house room by room
| sprucing up my flat ceilings. If he has some manual dexterity it will go
| fine. I practiced in the closet ceilings but first on the backs of some old
| drywall.
|

Any job can look cheesy and amateurish if you do a cheesy, amateurish
job. Mine looks great, as good or better than a spray job. It's just
the effect I wanted. I am a graphics artist by profession, so I am
concerned about how things look.

I was able to roll right up to the edge of the original natural
chestnut, wide-plank woodwork without worrying about overspray. And if
I made a mistake, I could scrape it off and do it over. A sprayer is
often not so forgiving.

I only did this in one particular room for a special effect, and on a
damaged ceiling area in a stairwell that was already textured. My
opinion is that to do the entire interior of most houses would indeed
be cheesy, no matter how the texture was applied. You don't want your
house to look like the interior of a cave.


|
| "Tom Miller" wrote in message
| ...
| On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 18:59:44 -0800, "WHoME?"
| wrote:
|
| | i'm a novice willing to try out texturing two of my rooms. i plan on
| | experimenting on some card board boxes first. at what air pressure do
| you
| | suggest this be applied?
| |
| | thanks in advance
| |
| |
|
|
| "Novice with spray gun" is a recipe for a major mess. At least it
| would be in my house with me aiming the spray gun! Instead, try this:
|
| Get a paint roller with a deep nap sleeve -- the deepest available --
| and a bucket of pre-mixed dry wall mud (joint cement). Roll the mud on
| slowly just like you would roll on paint. The deep nap of
| the roller and the thick mud will leave the texture you want.
|
| You might have to thin down the mud a little with water to get the
| right application, and you will have to practice a bit to get the
| exact texture you want. Try it out on a small area first (or on a
| board or box as you suggested) and see what you
| get. If you make a mistake you can scrape it off while wet with a
| trowel or putty knife.
|
| If the texture you leave on the wall is too "peaked" for example, you
| can knock it down with a clean, damp roller after the texture sets up
| a little. Make sure you roll it on smoothly, as ridges and
| odd swirls will show. You have to be a bit artistic and pay attention
| to matching the existing texture.
|
| After the texture dries, paint the whole wall the color you want. I
| did this on several areas in my 1921 house when we were
| renovating it and it worked fine. I never found it necessary to add
| sand to the paint or texture. My experience with my own house and
| homes of neighbors from the '20s is that sand was not used -- that was
| a later method and yields a different effect. A crappier effect IMHO.
|
| You can also buy more expensive premixed texture paint the color you
| want.
|
|