On Sun, 12 Dec 2004 09:33:05 +0000, Gunner wrote:


On the starboard side (means "over yonder" for those of you in Pumpkin
Center) is a red button marked Anneal, a red button marked Weld, and a
round disky knob with the numbers 1-6 on it. The knob does not appear to
do a hell of a lot of anything other than to put a bit more or less load
on the blade "force together after they are red hot" mechanism. I think.
Maybe. Kinda sorta. IMHO.

Anyone can tell me exactly what that knob/dial is supposed to do, and
what the suggested settings are?

There are three ways to accommodate different blade sizes:

1) Use fixed pressure and vary the current.
2) Use fixed current and vary the pressure.
3) Vary the current and pressure.

Control of the weld cycle may be done by a timer, either of fixed duration
or one that varies with blade size, or by switching off the primary power
based on the movment of the jaws as the weld upset occurs. The later
method is more precise and seems to be the method of choice on some of the
better blade welders.

Your welder appears to be a fixed current, variable pressure, timer
controlled system. And given that it is a 220VAC it may be
rated for 3/4" or 1" blades. Assuming that 1 on the pressure dial is the
lowest pressure and 6 is the greatest, position 6 would be used for a 3/4"
blade and 1 for a 1/4". When the pressure is correct for the width blade
there will be minimal sparks and an even upset along the weld. Experiment
with a 1/2" blade and you'll find the "sweet spot" pretty quickly. Where
the pressure dial winds up for a 1/2" blade will give you a good idea
where other blades need to be welded.

In my experience with home made welders (I've built four) a large shower
of sparks indicates an excessive current/insufficient pressure
relationship.

It is really important the the ends of the blade be squared off and match
before welding. This is best done by flipping one end of the blade,
holding them together and grinding both at the same time. Ground this way
any error when grinding will cancel out when the ends of blade are
oriented normally in the welder jaws.

It sounds like you may have never used a blade welder before.
And if that's the case surely one of your clients has one and an
experienced tech. It would be well worth your time to watch someone weld a
blade correctly. You'll see what a proper weld looks like and will be able
to "dial" yours in.

FYI: Stryco still exists and makes blade welders. There's nothing on their
site (http://www.micro-weld.com/stryco) about older models, but you might
try contacting them for info on this one.


Anyways..and annealing..do I simply put the clamps fully apart, or?
before annealing. When they are fully apart and a 1/2" blade is resting
all comfortable in there..it turns an interesting shade of blue, but
never goes red. Iffin I bring them together a bit..then it will glow red
as long as I hold the Anneal button down. actually In..it being on the
the side and all..but again I digress..sigh)

Normally annealing is done with the jaws open. And it is really important
to shade the jaw area so that you can see what's happening. The guy that
taught me used to turn the lights in the vicinity of the welder off
and use the built in work light on the welder for setup and turn it off
when annealing. In a darkened area you just barely want to see a glimmer
of dull red at the weld.

The test for proper annealing is to flex the blade at the weld. If it
breaks it wasn't properly annealed. Note that it isn't necessary to be
able to bend the blade back on itself, although a fully annealed weld will
survive this. A modest bend, say around 90deg, without breaking is good
enough.

--
The instructions said to use Windows 98 or better, so I installed RedHat.