On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 19:01:25 -0500, Guess who
calmly ranted:
On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 07:37:05 -0800, Larry Jaques
The more precisely you cut the wood, the more professionally it fits
together (for fine woodworking) and the better it looks.
That's a good idea, but how do you make it happen? Have you measured
the wobble in your blade while it cuts? I'm not being funny here. I
want to know.
Try it. Cut a piece of wood, measure it to the thousandth,
move the micro adjuster 0.005" and cut again at the same feed
rate. Now measure again. It should be 0.005" narrower than it
was before the second cut. It's the linear measurements which
are usually off. (A fence says it's exactly 10" and you measure
the cutoff piece at 10.026" or 9.079", etc.)
Accuracy of cut also depends on the material, not just
the cutter. I've always known that such accuracy [say ten thou] was
useful in mechanical assembly, but in woodworking? Wood is
compressible. There has to be variation in *any* saw cut. What I'd
like to know is the measured accuracy/precision of the cut after you
are finished using the micrometer. What difference is there from
tooth to tooth measured from a distance away? Are all teeth in a
blade lined up to the same accuracy? What if you measure to one tooth
and there is another that will cut a shade further out? Blade wobble
would be a primary consideration for me in judging if the accuracy set
up is retained. You could set up an electron microscope to line up
the blade, but not cut to that accuracy by a long shot, so what makes
the micrometer so useful then? What I'm driving at is whether or not
Screw the wobble. That blade will be at a certain place every time you
turn on the machine. We're making relative measurements, not exact.
("We" being those who use micro-adjusters.) Micro adjusters are useful
for taking off that skosh (or the proverbial RCH) when you need it.
you've made a cut on one piece, then moved the micrometer a thou and
made a cut on another, then actually measured that thou difference in
the materials. But still and then, when you glue and clamp all that
will change.
Of course it will, but the -fit- between the two will be precise.
That's what we're after.
I don't have a micrometer fence yet but I'll tell you when I do. By
microadjustable, I mean anything from a threaded rod (which you can
calibrate) to a micrometer. That beats a "bump with a fist on the
side of the fence" all to hell, doesn't it?
We're not trying to measure tenths here. Just much more accurate and
repeatable adjustment of any given machinery's fence.
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