I'm swinging a piece of pallet wood and it's duct-taped to keep it from
exploding. My first one did. Noticed I didn't stand in the path of
the swinging piece of wood due to the angle of the photos. This was
outside behind where I work and situated "just-so" so that if it blow
again, the pieces would fly elsewhere. I didn't have to have a load on
it but wanted at least a little something to make the engine work. My
test with the wood is over anyway. I'm looking for a minibike project
to mount this engine too. It's surprising how few parts are involved
in the conversion. I can easily beat the price of a new B&S horizontal
shaft engine which let's face it - in the used market, is harder to
come by than old vertical shaft engines.

The kit would have to be cheap yes - at the very least, I can sell
plans on ebay. I've heard so many people down-play the idea of
converting an engine but it's funny - people will buy a kit thinking it
will save them money over buying a new engine. In some cases it will
and other cases it won't. The fact that I've proven it can be done
answered tons of questions I had. Just tell me I can't do it and then
watch me go to work. :-)

You may have problems finding a small tube expander, but I think they

I've found plenty of them - just didn't know if they would work or not.

Just a tiny air leak and they don't really work all that

RTV and a hammer. Worse comes to worse - a couple slits and a hose
clamp. :-)

well.... I stilldoubt you will get sufficient heat transfer in really
cold conditions to elimiate your icing conditions, but you never
know.

I agree but better than nothing. If the engine was being used hard and
throttled up and down, it would probably produce the heat needed to
prevent icing. The stock setup though just uses an o-ring in the carb
that the intake tube presses into - probably not much thermal transfer
there anyway.

Thanks for the comments!

Erin