"Dave Morrison" wrote in message
...
Ignoramus21494 wrote:
On Wed, 08 Dec 2004 05:48:24 -0700, Dave Morrison
wrote:

When you get your new solenoid proper install will insure a long life.
1. Make sure the linkage is properly adjusted. The plunger MUST
completely seat in the bore when the solenoid is energized!!! The
plunger seats against a spring loaded button in the bottom of the bore,
the button operates the contacts in the back of the casing that
disconnects the pull in coil. The pull in coil draws between 20 & 30
amps the hold in maybe 2 amps. If that spring loaded button isn't fully
depressed you can get arcing across the contacts in the back, This of
course will destroy the contacts, but it also will heat up the pull in
coil enough to destroy the integrity of the enamel insulation of the
hold in coil and cause burn out.


I will follow your suggestion to the letter. Thanks.


2. Clean and lube the plunger, do not use oil. a light body grease is
used at the factory. Try to find a low temp grease, I use one made by
3M that is good to -50 F. Your big enemy here is rust on the plunger.
BTW some of these plungers are plated don't damage it with abrasives
when you clean it.


Okay. I have some silicone lubricant. Would that do?

If its a lube and not a dielectric grease and has good low temp specs it
should work.


3. Try to insure the solenoid gets maximum voltage. Check your wiring
for frays and dirty connections. Use the right battery. You want a
starting battery not a deep cycle. A deep cycle is designed to be slowly
discharged a starting battery is set up to give you a lot of amps quick.
Look for something with a CCA of at least 500 amps. My own preference is
a group 31 with threaded studs. It has plenty of power, the studs get
rid of the lead posts and their corrosion problems. Plus it is usually
available a truck stops and heavy equipment dealers cheap ($55.00 to
65.00 USA)


I have a marine deep cycle/starting battery, 800+ amps at 0F.

If you got it use it. But combo batteries are a compromise. Unless you
have a need for deep cycle when this one dies get a straight starting
battery.


4. Use the right battery cables. Minimum of 1 gauge. This will also
lengthen the life of the starter, and spin the motor faster for easier
starting.
These recommendations come from 30 years working on small 2 to 4 cyl
diesels in reefer units. Good luck. Dave


Thanks Dave. I have 4 gauge starting cables, I think, will look for
heavier ones.

Welding supply store or heavy equipment truck parts store.

i


I agree with Dave about the cables, if they are very long. If you are
talking about a few feet then the differences between 4 and 1 would be
slight. IMP
I welding or locomotive cable as it is called sometimes is great though
expensive. I have used MTW wire. Stands for machine tool wire, "a whole
lotta tiny wires" very similar to welding cable but comes in THWN and XHHW
insulation which can last longer in the sun light. ( big deal where I
live ). Your not going to find MTW at the box stores

Also the connections from the cable to the terminal to the post is another
place of importance. I have an T&B 3 crimper that I use to put the terminals
on. This makes an very air tight connection a lot like a factory battery
cable. I also like to use grade 5 bolts they hold up better to the corrosive
nature of batteries.