"Backlash" wrote in message
...
Thanks all, for your valuable input. Problem is, right now I'm in the
middle
of loading my entire workshop into a semi trailer I bought, so needed a
quick solution. Wife got a promotion, we're moving, and at the same time,
a
friend bought out my workshop property, so I had to clear that out also. I
think I'll measure the resistance of the coil, and see If I think I can
eliminate the resistor. I haven't owned the unit that long, and the coil
could just already be a more resistive coil. I'll let you all know what I
find out.

Well, off to resume loading. A neighbor has just called and offered his
lift
truck as a backup.

RJ

--
"Have no one say it, and say it to your shame, that all was well here,
until
YOU came."




"Karl Townsend" wrote in message
anews.com...
You might use a new approach. Put in retrofit electronic points and
change
to a coil without a resistor.

THIS IS SO MUCH BETTER! I live in MN and I've changed all my old
tractors
over. Now they all start if the battery can kick it over and I haven't
replaced points in years.

This will cost you about $100. Any autoparts store can order them. I
couldn't find it, but there's an online website to get them cheaper,
just
for tractor restore.

Karl

Most engines run with a 6 volt coil.The resistor is to bring the voltage
down from 12 volts to six volts. Fords use a resistor wire. Chryslers use a
ballast resistor. I don't recall what GM uses. When you start the engine the
system by passes the resistor so you are running 12 volts to the coil. This
is for cold weather starting. Once the engine is running the power is
rerouted through the resistor and you are then running the coil with the
proper 6 volts. Some cars use coils with the resistor built in.

Richard W.