Thanks. I bought the 1 x3 and was going to strap it. Then I read where
it's best to sheath about 2' around the perimeter of the roof surface and
strap inside that. One said use tarpaper and another said don't use
tarpaper because it can trap moisture on the underside. In the end, I
sheathed the whole thing. The main determinant for me is that it's getting
cold. I finished the sheathing today, but it's only about 38 degrees. If I
can just get the shingling done before the snow flies I'll be happy.
Another question - the building supply sold me 1 1/2" galvanized nails for
the shingling, but I'd like to avoid all that hammer work. Is there a type
of air-powered nailer and fastener I can use. I'd rent an ashphalt shingle
nailer, but everything I've read says shingles (shakes) are easily split,
and I think an ordinary asphalt-type shingle nail might split the shake.

Dave


"dondone" wrote in message
news:WAzqd.368250$a85.192313@fed1read04...
The 1x slats,w appropriate gaps but w/o solid sheathing, are commonally
used in wet climates like the Pacific northwest of the US. This lets air
circulate better in and around wood shakes & shinges to promote quicker
drying for longer life. Keeping them damp promotes mildew growth. Here
in the US southwest, wood shakes (we don't see many wood shingles) are
applied directly over sheathing like your OSB since moisture is not a
problem.

"ezalpha" wrote in message
.. .
Can I install cedar shingles directly on the 7/16" OSB plywood sheathing
on