I have always cut 45s to turn the chair rail down, then about 1/2" below the
bottom of the horizontal run, I cut the vertical run at 45 degrees towards
the wall and fit another very short piece cut at 45 degrees so that it
creates a moulded profile on the bottom of the vertical piece. The bottom
piece usually requires pre-assembly with glue then the back is belt sanded
flush with the vertical piece's back so that it fits perfectly flat on the
wall.
"DanG" wrote in message
news
wJpd.61157$_g6.21172@okepread03...
Flush is tacky.
Choices:
Terminate on a plinth and even turn it down to the baseboard.
Similar to:
http://www.jjwohlferts.com/index.asp...ry=176&count=1
Miter and turn it back into the wall. Don't end it even with the
opening, sit back a bit. Hold the turn back on with a bit of
carpenter's glue, the piece will probably be too small to use
nails, if you will be staining, be sure to keep the glue off the
finish face.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
"gntry" wrote in message
...
I would like to install a chair rail in my living room. I have an
opening
that runs from floor to ceiling. When I stop the rail at the
opening,I
wanted to put a "return" piece in rather then just cut the rail
off flush
with the wall. Is there a simple way to cut them? Any special
tricks?I
figured I would practice on some scrape first, cut a piece at a
90. or is it
45? What ever it is I have to cut the same angle the opposite
way?? OR,,
would it look better just leaving the rail cut flush with the
opening?