I think that the best book on the subject is Raffin's and if you do boxes you ought to have
it. The shape of the tenon (usually on the bottom with the mortise on the top) is important
(slightly bellied in the middle). In boxes, organization of the work is important because it
is not really possible to accurately rechuck a piece. Again, Raffin.

During the time I was doing boxes (not any more) I had no trouble getting a good fit in a
short time via trial and error (the only way) AT HOME. Then I did a day in a store on a Jet
12" lathe and all the fits were, as you have said, too tight on one trial and too sloppy on
the next.

The difference -- enough vibration and runout on the Jet to make a really thin cut
impossible. At home I turn on a Stubby 750 and there is no vibration nor runout. Even small
things go better on a big lathe, I think. I also sometimes do lace bobbins and they also go
better on the Stubby than on smaller machines.

Bill

In article , says...
It is taking me as long to fit a box top on or in its base as to make
the rest of the box. Even taking my time and being patient (I don't have
much of either) some of my box tops fall out of the base when held
upside down and I have to pretend that's for easy one hand removal. I
guess I could morph the bases into small cups, but I hate to throw the
tops (or anything else) away.

There has to be a better way than cut & try, cut & try, cut & try, cut
& overshoot! We can put a man on the moon, etc.

I know and have used several ways for making an accurate "pop fit', but
all the methods that I know of end up with the sameole 'cutting &
trying' and a miserable success rate.

I don't want to go to the moon, I just want a quick & easy way to fit
box tops. What method do you accomplished Boxers find best to fit box
tops so they don't fall out?


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



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