On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 11:43:34 GMT, Ba r r y
wrote:

On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 11:10:28 GMT, Greg G
wrote:

I plan to build it as 6 separate bookcases. The shelves and uprights
will be 3/4" oak ply. I plan to make a "face frame" if that's the
right word, of oak 1x2. I may or may not put full backs on the units.
There won't be any doors.

If you don't use backs, make sure to install some sort of strip that
can support suspending the fully loaded units.

That's what I meant by not a "full" back, but thanks.

I'm considering finishing (or partially finishing) all the pieces
BEFORE I assemble the actual units, so I don't have to apply several
coats of "stuff" to a couple of dozen inner surfaces. Since I'm going
to use dadoes and none of the outside surfaces will show, I'm even
considering assembling the units with screws (no glue). Does any of
that sound like a bad idea?

I like some glue in addition to the screws. Prefinishing is not a
problem, as long as areas where glue will go are protected with tape.

I guess I could put tape in the dadoes. Can I assume that finishing
the plain cut-to-length boards and THEN cutting the dadoes is a bad
idea?

I've tried out the stain already and I like the color. I'm wondering
what to follow it with. I have used a couple of different kinds of
poly on previous projects, with passable but unexciting results. I
think I'd like to try some sort of oil finish this time.

Regular "oil" finishes, like Watco can get weird over some stains. If
you really want oil, skip the stain and use a tinted oil. I'd also
recommend Waterlox Original, which is an oil and varnish blend.

I'm not really stuck on a particular method. I'd have to KNOW
something about finishing to have a strong preference. I just know
that the projects I have done with (water based) polyurethane have
been less than completely satisfying. I'm open to suggestions. I'd
love to find a happy medium between effort and results.

Waterlox works fine over most stains. I'd use a coat of Seal Coat to
prevent the Waterlox from moving the stain pigment around. A light
hand scuffing with 320 will remove dust nibs.

Will this
change the color a great deal?

Waterlox and plain oils will add a slight amber tint, which is often
desirable on oak. Tinted oils will add the color of the oil.

Hmmm. Tinted oils? Do I get to tint them myself, or do I just pick a
color? Brands?

Would it be better in any way to apply the LAST coat AFTER I assemble
the units? (I'm thinking that might help to fill in the edges at the
joints).

Finish isn't a filler. Oil finishes and Waterlox are repairable, so
you can do the entire finish in the shop with no worries.

Practice on scrap!

Barry
Thanks.