"Jordan" wrote in message
u...
Another approach - in case it's of interest:

An experience motor mechanic showed me another way to finish holes.

His method of making bushes was to turn it in a chuck, OD +.001 , ID
spot on.
When pressed into placed (in this case a conrod small end) the ID would
get smaller, and this was dealt with by honing with a small brake
cylinder hone in a hand drill.

Whilst that doesn't sound like a precise method, I found it to be better
than hand-reaming, which always left a 6-sided hole. I used to have to
ream on the tight side, and let it bed in.

Embedded abrasive doesn't seem to be an issue.

Jordan

Having worked with flexible hones as well as rigid hones, (think Sunnen) I
can't recommend, in good conscience, a flexible hone, although I have to
agree that the suggested method, where one leaves very little to remove, is
likely a very nice way to go, certainly better than reaming.

Honing a reamed hole quickly exposes all the problems of reaming. Rigid
hones are capable of making *perfectly* round and straight holes from those
that are not. It's inherent in the mandrel design. Flexible hones simply
follow the hole, and have a propensity for bell mouthing each end,
especially when not applied well.

Harold