On Wed, 17 Nov 2004 14:41:27 GMT, igor wrote:
I've had 2 or 3 router tables and the one I use the most and keep
"coming back" to is basically a 4' wide table with a straight fence
made of 2 layers of 3/4 ply... cut out under the fence using largest
bit so I know it clears..
The only adjustment is that it's held to the table with 2 carriage
bolts set in slots in the underside of the table..
I find that the height of the bit is much more critical than the fence
setting.... and that the thinner the stock, the more critical the bit
height becomes..

From all of the discussions here and from my review of the $$ one can spend
for a router lift, it seems clear that the precision of the height
adjustment can be very important. To better than 0.01". I've also seen
the $$ that can be spent for a router table fence, e.g. Incra. However, I
have also seen some fences for sale that have no more than jig screws/knobs
in T-tracks. And the same type is used on "ultimate" tables. This
_suggests_ that setting the fence is not so critical -- or, it is much
easier to set without a micro-adjust mechanism. Even on the small-shop
shapers, the fence seems to be a t-track set-up.

Of course, some bits use bearings, so that seems to solve a problem with
them. And other bits seem to involve setting part of the bit in line with
the fence - so a straight edge might make that easy.

I am planning on using a locking miter box bit, and there both height and
fence setting do seem critical.

So, before I set out to build my table for my new Bosch router, I'd
appreciate some insights on router table fence precision -- both "up and
back" setting as well as keeing it "square" -- i.e., parallel to a
diameter. I _can_ use my DW TS fence, but it would be better if I could use
a T-track fence effectively so that I can route, cut, route again, as
needed. TIA. -- Igor