"Bill Wallace" wrote in message
om...
As everyone else suggests, use a hard wood edge. I usually slice 3/8"
wide strips from 4/4 stock. Do this on the outside of the tablesaw
blade. There are some tricks to this, if anyone asks, I'll explain.


Bill, can you explain? Thx...



Or you can use a strip of moulding for a fancier edge. I like using a
bell curve profile but half rounds can work too.

In our shop we apply these using tape instead of clamps (no nail holes
or clamp dents). You can get some kind of stretchy tape just for this
or use masking. Just be careful that the tape doesn't pull up grain of
veener. This should be OK on Birch, Oak or mahogany can be a problem.

Make the strip a little wider than the ply. Glue it up so the bottom
is flush and the top rides high. Then use a scraper to pull the top
down flush, just until you take a shave of the veneer. I am a power
tool guy all the way but this is pretty much the best use of a scraper
I've seen and the best way to pull down the hard wood edge that I've
found.

If you are going to use edge banding (the glued/ironed on veneer
strip) make sure to fill any voids if you are using veneer core ply.
MDF core is better for this, no voids. Voids will telegraph and/or be
points of bad adhesion. I wouldn't edge band this application, but if
you do, really pull the edge down away from the top to minimize and
nicking of the edge band when removing iotems.


(Malcolm Webb) wrote in message
. co.uk...
I shall shortly be lining out a redundant window alcove to form a set of
bookshelves. The dimensions are 80 inches tall; 24 inches wide and 10
inches deep. I am minded to use 3/4 inch birch ply. What does the team
suggest is the best way to hide the end grain on the front edges of the
carcase and shelves?

Many thanks.

Malcolm Webb