Hi Greg

Yes I was wondering about the same thing, unless the straight end on the
taper and the hole through the spindle somehow have a interference,
which should not be that way, but it is not impossible of course, many
times the knock out bars are made out of steel and they will flare the
ends off the tapers if hit enough times, and if the size of these are to
close they could give you trouble, to prevent the flaring I use a brass
bar, it was hollowed and I filled that up with lead, works like a charm.
The fitting of parts that have to spin true by heating one part and
warming the other is a favorite way for me as well, rather than welding
with all the problems of uneven shrinking etc., I machine just under
size and cool the one by placing in the freezer for a few Hours and then
heat the other part on the stove or in the oven or with a torch whatever
is the best way, then have every thing set up and ready and then do it
quick and right. Made a couple of #5 mt with flanges that way, just
shrunk on and there have been some big and heavy chunks of wood spun on
them, never budge.

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

http://homepage.mac.com/l.vanderloo/PhotoAlbum18.html

Greg wrote:
I also wonder why it was so tight. Once the thing moved at all, it
should have just popped out. I wonder if there was extensive rust or
corrosion in there. A tapered MT joint should not have been that
difficult to remove.

You are right about keeping the Morse tapers clean, however. It not
only makes them easier to remove, but makes them less subject to
slipping.